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Showing posts with label Embroidery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Embroidery. Show all posts

Friday, 27 November 2015

Ha-ha-hardanger!

Have you ever heard a child shriek with fear, only for the shriek to turn into a laugh as they realise that they are okay? It goes something like, "Aarrghhhh-har-ha-ha-ha!" That's the sound I made as I cut into my first piece of Hardanger embroidery.

There is something totally crazy about carefully and precisely stitching a piece of embroidery, and then taking a pair of scissors to it. But it is also extremely liberating. I think it's probably the crafting equivalent of bungee-jumping - what my friend would call "extreme crafting".

I was intrigued by the idea of Hardanger, and found a really good course by Carol Leather online at http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/learn-hardanger.html. I've followed it without any previous experience, and I've managed to turn out some pieces that look remarkably like the real thing.

I've also extended my embroidery technique to include working on linen. In the past I have only ever embroidered on Aida, and like many people, I have been a bit daunted at working on a fabric that doesn't direct me to the relevant stitch-hole. However, the Aida fabric that I have is completely the wrong size for most of the projects on Carol's course - my "bookmark" on the Aida fabric I possess is coming out roughly the length of a piece of A4 paper!


So, what I've been doing is learning the technique on a piece of Aida, and then repeating it on a piece of linen. The linen I've been using is "left-overs" from my linen T-shirt (Linen top - antique fabric and lace ) and hair-band ( Vintage linen and lace, continued...). Granny's stash is being used to utmost! Of course, this is not embroidery linen, and is probably far too tightly woven, so I seem to be working from one extreme to the other. Ho hum. It's all part of the learning experience. I'll let you know how I progress with the rest of Carol's hardanger lessons.

Hx




Wednesday, 8 April 2015

More blackwork - with a name!!!

I've been experiencing another bout of enforced immobility recently. Frustrating as it is, it does give me time to focus on my more sedentary pastimes like embroidery and kumihimo.

Hence, another load of blackwork.

I've been playing with stitches I've spotted in various places on-line. Most of them are sourced from historical samplers, so I hope I'm not breaching anybody's copyright. I had just been putting them together on these long strips according to which patterns appealed to me. I had cut the strips years ago to use as conveniently sized pieces to take on holiday. The urge to embroider on vacation never arose, and they've sat in my drawer until I've started using them now.

 And then a revelation! I was watching Jane Greenoff (janesjournal.thecrossstitchguild.com/) on TV, and she was talking about the history of these long, thin samplers. They have a name! They have a history! I thought they were just another example of meeting my own convenience, but it turns out the style has been going for hundreds of years.

They are called "band samplers" or "banner samplers". Women would use them, just as I am, to experiment and learn new stitches. Through history they were generally kept rolled or folded up, and carried around as a kind of quick reference guide.
I suspect I won't be doing that. I've now got two and a half complete "bands", and they become grubby enough just from being handled whilst stitching. I think when the third band is completed I may get them framed.

I really like the idea that I have stumbled across something that has been worked by women through history. Learning techniques and ideas from books and teachers is wonderful. I love it. But I get a special buzz from discovering that something I have worked out on my own was also being done by my ancestors. I know I'm sentimental, but it makes me feel like I have a connection with all those women of the past, and that their knowledge continues.

Thank-you, all sisters!
Hx


Tuesday, 13 May 2014

Blackwork - my stitching meditation

Needlework appeals to me intermittently. I've become absorbed by cross stitch on occasion. However, the life of a self-employed entertainer can take up a lot of time. As any self-employed person will tell you, you can end up working far more hours than a regular employee, and time consuming hobbies can end up taking a back seat!

So the immobility enforced on me by my illness gave me the opportunity to revisit the joy of needlework. I discovered a new form of needlework I hadn't encountered before - blackwork.



The History blurb
I've researched a bit (mostly because I was trying to find out how to do it, but also to find out why it was called "blackwork" when it is done in any colour!), and I find the history quite interesting.

Known to date from the 15th/16th Centuries, blackwork seems to have grown from a desire to have lace decoration on clothing. Lace was extremely expensive and hard to access, so a technique of reverse running stitch in geometric designs was used. It's benefits were that it looked the same on both sides of the fabric, and if stitched in black thread gave the impression of lace but at a fraction of the price.
Blackwork is also known as Spanishwork, having been believed to have come to Britain from Spain with Catherine of Aragon (she who is better known for being that rare breed, a spouse of Henry VIII who lived to tell the tale!)
Blackwork is also known as Holbein stitch - but this has nothing to do with the artist's abilities with a needle! This alternative name stems from the painter Holbein depicting detailed illustrations of clothing in his oil-paintings. Art enthusiasts can check out collars and cuffs in his paintings to find examples.
The variations in colour came later, presumably from the monotony of only ever working with black thread! These in turn developed and spawned "redwork" and "goldwork" (but not "whitework", which is formed of completely different techniques)



For further reading about the history and ideas of designs, check out:


The technique
Actually the technique is very simple. If you take the basic "in, out" of running stitch going from left to right, you get...
_  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _

But if, when you reach the end of the line, you come back with a running stitch that fills in the gaps ("out, in"), your line becomes solid. I've shown it here with left to right stitches in black, and right to left stitches in red. Of course, in reality they would all be in the same colour.
___________________

Fiendishly simple! But also extremely boring if all you ever do is straight lines. Where blackwork becomes intricate, and indeed where it gathers it's beauty, is from the ingenious changes of direction that develop it's elaborate patterns.

The pieces
The first piece I did started out as an experiment in working different stitches, and rapidly turned into a banner sampler. I guess I was creating a sampler for exactly the same reason that our ancestors used to make them - as a record of how to do certain stitches. I love the concept that things we look at as pure decoration now, were essential records in the days before computers, photographs or photocopies!

I quite liked the fact that I had completed it all in one colour, despite protestations from hubby who felt that it should have a greater variety.

The "Snowy Rooftops in Prague" shown at the top of this post was where my inspiration took me with the technique. I saw a black-and-white photo in a magazine of the scene, and it seemed the perfect match for this style. To be honest, it is a bit of a cheat!
First of all, if it were true blackwork, it would all be worked in a single colour - not necessarily black, as I have already mentioned. I used four colours for this piece - black, white, and two shades of grey. It's less authentic than using the stitching to create all the shading, but it worked for me.
Secondly (cardinal sin, this one), as I couldn't work out how to create it purely from counting the threads, I drew the picture on the back of the canvas. Yes, I know! I can hear the purists out there tutting at me. It meant I was able to create the picture, though. (Strictly speaking it also means that all the buildings are back-to-front, but no-one has noticed that yet....)

More importantly at the time, I discovered this was one of the few things I could actually do at the height of my illness. When your body is throwing all the symptoms of anxiety attacks at you, all you can do is lie still and focus on your breathing. When you've been doing this for a few hours, it starts to get frustrating. Following the patterns of blackwork stitches was not only something I could do without having to stand, or even sit up, but it became quite therapeutic. Concentrating on these simple yet intricate designs became a form of meditation for me, as well as placating my sense of guilt at staying still for so long.

So, when I later resolved to quit smoking (successfully, I am proud to report) blackwork seemed like the ideal distraction whenever I craved a cigarette. It worked!

Firstly I experimented with using the shading of blackwork stitches to form a rose design. It didn't quite work, but then I was using a cross-stitch pattern. Technically, I did it properly this time, by counting the stitches rather than drawing the design. I think it failed because I didn't have enough contrast between the stitches to give the shading, and because the design was too small. Shading with stitches that are only one square of Aida fabric wide is simply too tricky! But every failure is a step towards perfection....







I then played with a couple of designs I'd found - one for daisies and one for lilies. The two were separate designs, but I combined them to change the shape of the final piece.


Having been quite inspired by this, I went online to seek images of and patterns for blackwork. There are thousands! I've gathered a few that I would like to try in the future, but I've overwhelmed myself a little. The images have to sit in my "ideas" notebook for a while, until I'm ready to commit to working on them. This is quite common for creative types, I believe - ideas need to ripen before we can produce them effectively. Good thing I have lots of pages in my notebook!

H.x